Why Merino? A Shackleton Guide to Fibres
BIO-ENGINEERED TO PERFORM
Today’s Merino wool brings a suite of properties to active wear that’s yet to be bettered. In base-layer terms, it’s the Boss.
It’s the next-to-skin layer of choice on both cold starts and cool descents, but also has your back in the high-pulse times between. It regulates body temperature like the kind of climate control systems we humans only learned to invent in the last few decades: warming when required, cooling when things heat up.
Merino is also top of the class when it comes to moisture wicking, as its naturally hygroscopic fibres allow it to absorb 30 percent of its weight in liquid before feeling wet. As a bonus, this ability to retain moisture also makes it resistant to static, and very fire-safe compared to synthetic materials.
Merino’s elastic property means shirts and sweaters won't wrinkle or crease. They pack tight, then bounce right back into shape when shaken and worn.
It’s non-allergenic and antibacterial, so any lurking sweat attracts none of the bacteria that lead to odour. “Wear it all day, sleep in it, repeat” is not just for solo Antarctic expeditions. We do it in the Alps, in Finse, in Svalbard, even in Arabia and Africa. Its range of appropriate habitats and use cases is close to miraculous.
HOW MERINO WORKS ITS MAGIC
Under a microscope, all wool fibres reveal kinks. Coarse wool may have just one or two of these “crimps” per inch: Merino has up to 30. This allows the fibres to lie so loosely on top of each other that tiny air chambers form between them, supplying the wearer with excellent natural insulation.
These extra-wavy, extra-fine Merino fibres – around a third the diameter of a human hair - bend out of the way when in contact with skin, making the best Merino base layers feel almost uncannily unobtrusive. Pick the right quality, weave and weight and construct it properly – ideally with no internal seams – and a Merino base layer can feel like wearing nothing at all.
HOW MODERN MERINO CAME ABOUT
Centuries ago, selective breeding of Spanish and north African sheep created a much prized premium wool. So much so that for centuries, sneaking out a breeding pair from Spain was effectively treated as treason, and punished with extreme prejudice.
The world moved on. By the 18th century, Merino had spread across Europe and then to Australia, where the fibre became even finer and more uniform.
These days it accounts for under 1% of the materials we wear, much sought-after by active types across the globe. As ever, this has led to wide differences in quality of yarn
BLENDING MERINO WITH TENCELTM
As adept as pure Merino is, for certain high-pulse applications we’ve found it performs best in partnership. Tencel is another all-natural marvel; sustainably made from wood pulp, it adds more durability and for some, a cooler feel against the skin. It’s not as odour-resistant as Merino and doesn’t trap heat in the same way, so a judicious blend of the two fibres creates a unique sweet spot for active exploits in warmer climes.
After extensive testing in the wild, our optimal Merino/Tencel range breaks down as 56% Tencel, 37% Merino and 7% Elastane. This blend is capable of blocking 98.9% of UVA rays and 99.5% of UVB rays, almost five times more effective than a cotton equivalent, while feeling cooler in use.
OUR MOST POPULAR MERINO LAYERS
Pure Merino
Today’s Merino wool brings a suite of properties to active wear that’s yet to be bettered. In base-layer terms, it’s the Boss.
It’s the next-to-skin layer of choice on both cold starts and cool descents, but also has your back in the high-pulse times between. It regulates body temperature like the kind of climate control systems we humans only learned to invent in the last few decades: warming when required, cooling when things heat up.
Merino is also top of the class when it comes to moisture wicking, as its naturally hygroscopic fibres allow it to absorb 30 percent of its weight in liquid before feeling wet. As a bonus, this ability to retain moisture also makes it resistant to static, and very fire-safe compared to synthetic materials.
Merino’s elastic property means shirts and sweaters won't wrinkle or crease. They pack tight, then bounce right back into shape when shaken and worn.
It’s non-allergenic and antibacterial, so any lurking sweat attracts none of the bacteria that lead to odour. “Wear it all day, sleep in it, repeat” is not just for solo Antarctic expeditions. We do it in the Alps, in Finse, in Svalbard, even in Arabia and Africa. Its range of appropriate habitats and use cases is close to miraculous.
HOW MERINO WORKS ITS MAGIC
Under a microscope, all wool fibres reveal kinks. Coarse wool may have just one or two of these “crimps” per inch: Merino has up to 30. This allows the fibres to lie so loosely on top of each other that tiny air chambers form between them, supplying the wearer with excellent natural insulation.
These extra-wavy, extra-fine Merino fibres – around a third the diameter of a human hair - bend out of the way when in contact with skin, making the best Merino base layers feel almost uncannily unobtrusive. Pick the right quality, weave and weight and construct it properly – ideally with no internal seams – and a Merino base layer can feel like wearing nothing at all.
HOW MODERN MERINO CAME ABOUT
Centuries ago, selective breeding of Spanish and north African sheep created a much prized premium wool. So much so that for centuries, sneaking out a breeding pair from Spain was effectively treated as treason, and punished with extreme prejudice.
The world moved on. By the 18th century, Merino had spread across Europe and then to Australia, where the fibre became even finer and more uniform.
These days it accounts for under 1% of the materials we wear, much sought-after by active types across the globe. As ever, this has led to wide differences in quality of yarn
BLENDING MERINO WITH TENCELTM
As adept as pure Merino is, for certain high-pulse applications we’ve found it performs best in partnership. Tencel is another all-natural marvel; sustainably made from wood pulp, it adds more durability and for some, a cooler feel against the skin. It’s not as odour-resistant as Merino and doesn’t trap heat in the same way, so a judicious blend of the two fibres creates a unique sweet spot for active exploits in warmer climes.
After extensive testing in the wild, our optimal Merino/Tencel range breaks down as 56% Tencel, 37% Merino and 7% Elastane. This blend is capable of blocking 98.9% of UVA rays and 99.5% of UVB rays, almost five times more effective than a cotton equivalent, while feeling cooler in use.
OUR MOST POPULAR MERINO LAYERS
Pure Merino
NELSON MERINO BASE LAYER
The all-Merino, British-made Nelson base layer is the first name on many a kit list. Worn next to the skin in sustained output scenarios it’s soft, comfortable and extremely fast-drying. A whole-knit seamless structure reduces friction under load, while lateral ribbing adds robustness for repeated wear. We’ve been known not to take ours off for seven days straight.
MARLBOROUGH POLO SHIRT
High-performance active layer? Tick. Smart Polo shirt? Also tick. Constructed from a 195gsm merino fabric, the super-versatile Marlborough just keeps on ticking boxes: breathable, moisture- wicking, odour and crease-resistant. It makes the transition from active mode to R&R a breeze.
DOCKER MERINO SWEATER
This perennial Shackleton favourite is a constant best-seller for a reason. Popular in kitbags for its versatility, our unusually rugged-feeling all-merino quarter-zip is basically three jumpers in one. It works as a thermo-regulating base layer, over a tee as mid-layer, and over a shirt when required. Performs equally well in the planning stage.
SUPERNAL T-SHIRT
The Supernal Short-Sleeved Tee particularly comes into its own in the mountains or desert. Wear on its own when active, or as a foundation to a layering system. Works really well with a Nelson on top, to be removed and replaced as required.
LISTER LONG-SLEEVED T-SHIRT
Long sleeves extend the range of use cases - cold mornings a speciality - making the Lister the go-to base layer for many throughout the year.
SALIENT HOODED T-SHIRT
Adding a hood to our long-sleeve Lister has proved a revelation, not least for the added sun protection for the neck and head during hot climbs in warmer climes. The Tanatex Pure Finish enhances durability yet further.
GET IN TOUCH
Call us on +44 (0) 208 138 0212 or email info@shackleton.com to talk to a member of our team, who will happily assist you.
TRY BEFORE YOU BUY
Drop into our London store (214 Piccadilly, London, W1J 9HL) to explore the range. All information can be found HERE.
