Markham Hardshell Jacket
Principles, Practicalities, Performance
The science of modern waterproof apparel can seem impervious to easy understanding. This material or that? How important is this feature I keep reading about, and which names can I trust? What do the claimed figures actually mean, and does spending more buy better performance?
And if we spend our spare time in nature because we love our planet and its most challenging climates, does our chosen equipment harm the environment or respect it? Like most things in life, it comes down to a few core principles. Here’s our ground-up, field-ready, planet-aware guide, as short and informative as we can make it.
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The Importance of breathability
Mankind’s first attempts at waterproofed apparel focused on one aim: keep the elements at bay. From the first Inuit parka to Shackleton’s era of rubberised cotton, imperviousness proved relatively attainable. But as anyone who’s tried to climb a mountain in a ‘70s cagoule can attest, keeping liquid out is only half the task.
A fabric that doesn’t breathe will leave you damp from the inside after the first steep ascent. And being soaked in sweat as unhelpful to our wellbeing as a leaking seam, zip or neckline.
When we’re wet through, we’re not only miserable but also vulnerable. Sodden skin is colder skin, requiring more effort from inside to keep us alive – especially in the wind, and especially when active. In the extremes, it’s life or death. Closer to home, it’s the difference between “let’s push on” and “how far back to base?”
So we need to re-frame the task as moisture management. Here’s how.
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Think In Systems
The answer lies in layers. If beating rain is the aim, the outer shell has no need to be warm. Windproof and waterproof is fine. Even snow and ice are best handled by a systemic approach.
A well-chosen base layer will wick moisture from the skin, absorbing it without feeling damp.
The right mid-layer will insulate from the outside climate while avoiding over-heating from within. As activity levels and temperatures rise, it will pack small and add minimal weight to your load.
The ideal outer shell will not only protect from the elements, but also allow moisture out - and ideally feature flexible ventilation to manage your internal micro-climate. When not required, it should be unobtrusive to carry and ready at a moment’s notice at the first hint of rain.
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Understand your Outer Layer
Most serious modern waterproof jackets use a 3-layer construction:
- Outer fabric for durability
- Waterproof-breathable membrane
- Inner liner for comfort
Properly laminated together, these will keep you dry inside and out – provided the potential weak links are treated right.
These tend to be seams and openings, so reassurance comes from phrases like “fully seam-sealed”, protected zip housings and thought-through closing mechanisms on the cuffs and neck.
What is a 3-layer Construction?
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Know Your Numbers
A serious piece of storm-proof apparel will carry an HH rating for water resistance and a MVTR rating for breathability. Understanding these, and applying them to your expected use case, is critical to choosing well.
The Key Statistics to Know
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Interrogate the materials for sustainability credentials
The first breathable/waterproof membranes used expanded PTFEs, long-chain chemical compounds that don’t break down and can’t be recycled. Over time they build up in the air and water systems, ultimately finding their way into the food chain, posing a threat to both wildlife and humans. These chemicals have been linked to immune system reduction and are also carcinogenic. No Shackleton fabrics use PTFEs.
A DWR can be similarly harmful, this time thanks to PFCs (perfluorocarbons, polyfluorocarbons and fluororesins), compound chain chemicals that share similar detrimental effects on the environment. Much time has been invested in the innovation of PFC-free (C0) DWR finishes which work just as well or better, without containing any harmful chemicals. While never the most economical choice, these are what Shackleton exclusively chooses to use.
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Examine features, construction & fit
Any good quality waterproof should have:
- Fully taped seams
- Adjustable hood
- High-quality zips with storm guards
- A proper fit over your insulating layer, as close as you can without restricting movement or airflow and ideally
Waterproof Shell Jackets
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